Titles Achieved to date...

Monumental A to Z High On Liberty
NW1, RATI, RATN, RATO, NW2, L1I, RATS, L1E, L1C, L1V, L2C, L2I, L2E, RATM, R-FE/N, PKD-TL, PKD-N, ADPL1, ADPL2, TD, UWP, ADPL3, NTD, TKN, L2V, ADPL4, SDS-N, ADPL5, ADPCH, ADP1(2), ADPL1(GC), ADPL2(2), ADPL2(GC), VPN, AP, UWPCH, ADPL3(2), ADPL3(GC), NC, NI, NE, SCN, SIN, SEN, CZ8B, NV, NN, ADPL4(2), ADPL4(GC), ADPGCH, ADPL5(2), RATCH, CZ8S, AI, TKI, AV, AE, AC, AN, R-FE/X NW3-V, NW3-E, SI, RN, R-FE/NS, CZ8G, SC, SV, SE, SN, SEA, SBN, SWN, SIA, SCA, ADP-1(Th), ADP-2(Th), ADP-3(Th), ADP-4(Th), ADP-5(Th), and ADP-CH(Th)... 81 and counting...

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

TDU/VST Seminar, notes

This entry is a recap of my notes:

Additional handler skills for urban tracking includes:
  • reading the dogs fragile signals, much more subtle than in field tracking
  • shifting responsibility to the dog for staying on the "good track"
  • accepting that your dog may move well off the track to investigate options
  • keeping you and your dog safe when tracking in parking lots or crossing roads
Hard-surface expectations
  • don't expect your dog's nose to be flat against the asphalt
  • don't expect your dog to be as close to the footsteps on asphalt or concrete as he is on lawn
  • accept your dog is tracking even though he is paralleling the track several feet to several yards to the side
Corner communication
  • once there is a change of behavior, stop and let your dog search for the next segment using your whole line
  • make sure your dog has completely searched the whole 360ยบ several times before moving
  • as your dog starts to follow the next segment, let the line out almost to the end, then follow and immediately climb up the line
  • when the dog lines out - corner communication includes asking the question, "Is this the good track?" AND increase pressure on the line
As you are teaching your dog, handling will vary between teaching-helping
  • it's not a one way street. you'll go back-and-forth through various levels of helpfulness as track complexity and conditions vary
  • It's common for a dog to "lose" a skill, for many reasons or no reason at all
  • step back in track complexity and then move forward in small steps, so the dog can re-acquire the skill, with added depth of understanding
How to balance your desire for the dog to track close to the track vs. letting him follow the dispersed fringe...
  • if your dog is losing the track following the fringes, then focus on keeping him closer to the track - using well-marked known tracks
  • if your dog is usually good at staying close to the footsteps, let him work where he wants, even overshooting a corner by 30-50 yards
  • after all, your dog has to learn to re-find the track when he's 30-50 yards off the track before you can realistically pass a VST test; likewise you have to learn to handle your dog and allow him to recover
  • if your dog is usually good at ignoring contamination, then allow him to follow a known contamination track for 30-50 yards before stopping him and you'll get practice re-finding the track
This is the last of our seminar blogs, until next time. 

Tomorrow Gimme and I are going to Chehalis for an NW3 trial. It's only 30 minutes from home - what a blessing. Please keep those prayers and good thoughts coming...

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